Harz

The Harz is one of Germany’s national parks, and at less than three hours’ drive from Berlin, it’s pretty much the perfect destination for a weekend getaway. I first visited many years ago, travelling in my van in late autumn and staying with a couchsurfer. Back then, work had been particularly intense, and all I really wanted was a quiet weekend tucked away in the forest. The weather was rainy the entire weekend, but the Harz still delivered exactly what I was after: damp, mossy, green, and beautifully calm.

This time, I came back in late spring, and the weather was on a completely different level. It felt like I was discovering a whole new Harz. Gone was the wet, brooding forest of my first trip, replaced by long sunny walks between endless rapeseed fields glowing in that almost unreal shade of yellow. We climbed a few hills along the way to take in some lovely views over the valley, and barely crossed paths with anyone for the entire weekend. Just sun, silence and space.

Next time, I’d love to come back for a proper hike up the Brocken. At 1,141 metres, it’s not exactly a giant by mountain standards, but for a weekend escape it sounds just about perfect. It’s the highest peak in the Harz and the tallest mountain in all of northern Germany, and it even inspired Goethe, who immortalised it in Faust. A worthy excuse, I think, to plan yet another return trip.